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Textile recycling: Scheme du réemploi in crisis, EPR under strain

The textile re-use Scheme is going through a major crisis. Between logistical saturation, a drop in donations and a lack of funding, social economy structures are sounding the alarm. A crisis that calls into question the effectiveness of the currentEPR TLC Scheme .
Written by
Lucas Sichère
Published on
2025-07-28

Textile re-use: a model on its last legs

Despite the EPR TLC (Textiles, Household Linen, Footwear) coming into force in 2022, reuse structures, often stemming from the social economy, are struggling to keep up. The cause:

  • A collapse in donations, linked to inflation and a drop in durable purchases;

  • Saturation of volumes collected, with few viable outlets;

  • Modifications to eco-taxes deemed unfair or ill-calibrated;

  • And a growing financial imbalance, despite the 1 billion euros announced by the Refashion eco-organization over the duration of the agreement.

As a result, several organizations (Emmaüs France, Croix-Rouge, Tissons la Solidarité...) are warning of the risk of site closures, job cuts and the collapse of the circular textile model.

The EPR framework called into question

Players in the field point to a governance system that is too vertical and too far removed from the realities of collection and sorting. Recurrent criticisms concern :

  • Lack of transparency in the use of funds collected via eco-contributions;

  • Insufficient support at key stages: collection, sorting, repair, recycling;

  • The gap between political promises and operational implementation.

The debate is now open on an overhaul of the TLCEPR Scheme specifications, scheduled for 2026, with a clear desire to put re-use players back at the heart of the scheme.

What this means for brands and marketers

If you sell textiles or footwear in France, you are concerned by the EPR TLC. And this context calls for triple vigilance:

  • Know your exact obligations (registration, UIN, volume declaration) ;

  • Master eco-modulation criteria to avoid unjustified penalties;

  • Justify your declarations in the event of an ADEME inspection or request for proof by the eco-organization.

The current context shows that EPR is no longer just a flat-rate tax. It is becoming a structuring commitment, potentially strategic for brand image.

CompliancR : securing your Textile EPR compliance

At CompliancR, we support players in the textile, retail and SSE sectors in managing their EPR obligations, with a platform designed for simplicity and regulatory rigor.

Our solution allows you to :

  • Automatically track your product data (composition, origin, recycled materials);

  • Calculate your eco-contributions according to the modulated criteria in force;

  • Generate declarations that are compliant, auditable and adaptable to each evolution of the Scheme ;

  • Anticipate adjustments to the 2026 specifications.

In such an unstable context, mastering EPR obligations becomes a necessity, not an option.

Find out how CompliancR can help you turn this constraint into a structuring advantage for your Scheme.

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